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Becoming a violin  luthier

Becoming a violin  luthier

becoming a violin luthier
At my teachers workshop with my friend Andrew

The path to luthiery is different for everyone, whilst traditionally it was a father-son apprenticeship, or apprenticeship to a violin maker you knew, this is less likely in Australia than somewhere like Europe. Thus for some it means going overseas to study, or taking up a kind of apprenticeship in a specialty music shop.  There is something about being an apprentice in an old world  European workshop that appeals to us all I think…and some secrecy too.

In getting to know violin luthiers here in Brisbane and further afield, there is a bit of a mix of all of these and everyones path is somewhat different. For my own part, coming from an academic background I can see the advantages of a deep dive under a single master, but also the wide range of expertise from a course of study, or a more collegiate style approach.

However you get your start I am not sure it matters so much its generally driven by passion rather than anything else. Along the way there are plenty of barriers of entry to the trade to deter the casual and while luthiers are in short supply, its not something to do if you want to make a lot of money.

Most luthiers I have come across have an intrest in music, usually and ideally a string player in music. They also need to have some manner of mechanical aptitude and affinity with wood. Luthiery is thus the intersection of these two skill sets – and they don’t commonly intersect  – but here is the sweet spot for a violin luthier. Being able to play the violin and perhaps even teaching experience all helps in under standing the needs of a player – and is a really important ingredient for understanding what a violin should be able to do. A musical ear is really helpful here for fine tonal adjustments. An ability to understand the mechanics of a violin, how it works from a acoustical-mechanical perspective help guide the craft. An appreciation for fine tolerances, combined with practical skills with tools is the second major skill set. Understanding wood and tools used to work wood at fine tolerances, together with finishing and construction are something that need to also be developed along the way. 

So if you can play a Paganini caprice or two and cut a decent dovetail joint…you will likely make a fabulous luthier in time.

cello and violin luthier at work

For the rest of us mere mortals this is something we might work up to in time, not sure about the Paganini bit…but hey this is a blog). Luthiery, just like playing a violin is where a teacher plays a pivotal role. Being shown technique  and then practicing your scales err… skills over and over is important. After you have carved and admired your first bridge, you will look back on it 50 bridges later and wonder what you were thinking…and so one as you master technique after technique.

My own journey began as a player, and then repair of my childrens instruments under the watchful eye of a violin maker friend…eventually he told me to hang a sign out…but more on that later.

Brisbane’s Bow Rehairing Journeyman 

For bow rehairing by Brisbane journeyman luthier Fiddler Dan. Choose from Mongolian fine hair or courser grades for viola, cello or bass. I can also replace thumb leathers and bow windings as well.

Bow Rehairing is something in demand in Brisbane  and with several luthiers recently retiring, it is even further under pressure as demand continues to grow. Reasonable mastery of violin bow re-hairing requires something of the order of a few hundred rehairs to have been completed, which is not a short path by any means….of course reasonable competency is reached well before that.

bow hair stock for bow rehairing per customer reuuirements

UPDATE: August ’24 I’ve now rehaired over 60 bows and have a good selection of hair from fine Mongolian, to courser grade hair and black hair for individual preferences of violist, cellists and bass players.

my bow rehairing jig given to me by my teacher...its made of huon pine...which i like to use for my plugs
My bow rehairing jig, a gift from my violin making teacher David Brown

Under the instruction of my teacher I have been learning the art of bow rehairing  for the last year or so with numerous rehairs and bow repairs now under my belt, as well as general bow repair services . I am happy to say I now can offer this service as a ‘journeyman’.  The challenge now is to continue to progress my experience for the future, which is where I need your help.

Rehairing from Brisbanes most experienced luthiers is around $250 and well worth the price. Some music shops are doing them for around ~$200, either in house or outsourcing the work to a specialist. I highly recommend these services if you have a professional level bow and are playing to a high level.

bow rehairingh requires the replacement of the wedges at the tip and in the frog of the violin bow

However for student and intermediate bows for intermediate/advancing players you might like to give me a try, as I am offering my ‘journeyman’ bow rehairs for substantially less as I develop my experience and further refining my skill. Rest assured though I am using the same high quality Mongolian horse hair that my more experienced colleagues are using.

Take a look at some the elements of bow rehairing

Why are my violin pegs slipping?

Actually most people don’t ask why are my pegs slipping, they just say my violin is out of tune and won’t hold a note. There is a myriad of reasons and the violin pegs slipping is usually the culprit. To understand why it happens it’s useful to understand how pegs work.

Pegs have a slightly conical taper to them, this neat design allows them to fit more snugly by pushing them in slightly as you tighten the string. Its not perfect , probably need to move to something like guitar tuners, but hey this is a traditional classical instrument so pegs it is!

The pegs them selves are made of a hardwood, usually ebony so they they don’t wear out and go into the peg box which is maple – also a hard wood but slightly softer. So inevitably though use they start to wear a bit.  Wood on wood can get a bit sticky or creaky so they are lubricated with peg paste (or peg dope). Peg past is made from some lubricating and some sticky elements, so they can grip and slide appropriately. A mix of fine clay, rosin and perhaps graphite is in this material.  The different makers of peg paste have different combinations and I find using the right one for the climate is important. Peg paste is something replaced yearly with an instruments service.

Home/ teacher solutions can involve some crushed rosin or chalk applied to the pegs – yes it works as a quick fix, but you may end up with stuck pegs.

Over time the wearing of the pegbox takes place , and its an out or round wear, because for the string tension in one direction , meaning the peg develops favourite positions to sit in and may slip to these. The remedy here is to ream the peg box hole slightly to return it to round and shave the peg also if appropriate.

Another thing that happens to pegs /peg box as they wear is the peg sits further in the hole. At some point this is limited by the string that is wound around the hole as it hits the opposite side of the peg box, and so push in as you may the peg will never fit tighter in the box and always slip. this is common on a violin thats been played for some time (years), so on secondhand instruments that have been handed down to the 2nd, 3rd, 4th player its an inevitability. The solution is to drill a new hole in the peg for the string to sit more in the middle of the peg box…no hassle!

One note of caution if your violins pegs are slipping, resist the temptation to push it too hard into the peg box to get it tight. The danger here is you crack the peg box and have a very expensive repair – or in the case of a student violin it will be cheaper to replace it.

A Guzheng for the win

I had this lovely Chinese Zither in for some minor work last week. Its proper name is a Guzheng. Its a plucked instrument like a horizontal harp if you will.

Accompanying it was a Ruan that also need some work, A Ruan is a kind of Chinese guitar that comes in three sizes and it tuned tonic-fith-tonic fith

Cara, the artist who brought them in is a regular performer, here is one of her recording for the ABC.

Violin Expert

Make makes a violin expert? Are you looking for a violin expert then you might have come to the right place ……or you might not? It’s a self appointed label a violin store or workshop owner might give themselves. So what would make a violin expert, would you need to be an expert violin player, a expert luthier with expert knowledge of product? …


If your looking for a violin expert to fit out your young child with an instrument you might be looking for something quite different to a concert violinist looking for a new specialist instrument for soloing.


So after 40 years of violin playing (not all of it at a high level), working as a violin luthier for various music shops and apprenticing to a violin maker I find myself unwilling to venture in and call myself an expert ( Dunning Kruger have something to say on this ) . Yet when I look at the instruments that come to me for repair, or someone coming to buy an instrument I certainly think I have a measure of some expertise to offer. Many find my perspective as a player, educator, luthier and also as a parent of young players helpful.

Violin Appraisal

Appraising a violin for value is a tricky business, with more than a few places not doing it? Violin appraisal is looking at the quality of the build of a violin, its sound and then also its historical value. Un-picking these three components of a violin during appraisal I find helpful in determining the value of a violin. But it’s not without its challenges. (See How much is my violin worth).

For modern instruments from a reputation brand or maker, appraisal is more straight forward and google can really help here. Of course you also need to consider the providence, or how the current own (and owner before them) came by the instrument to ensure it is authentically what it purports to be.


Older violins are much harder to appraise, labels to the uninitiated can be misleading at best, age can be faked, many in the trade are unwilling to appraise such instruments. For example most if not every instrument label as a Stradivari is labelled so at best as a homage to the famed maker, or indicates a copy of one of his models and the same is true for the instruments copied of other famous makers like Guarneri, Maggini and Amati’s in the wild.

Less kindly there is an entire business around “antiquing” of both instruments and the labels inside them , with dust, staining and even “tone balls” added to give a sense of age. In the trade valuing of these instruments is acknowledged as difficult to do, even with a encyclopaedic knowledge and years of experience, where there is intent to deceive by a maker it can be tricky to detect. There is the business of fake repairs, fake neck grafts etc… to give an impression of age.

Through the quality of the timbers, construction on the insides and sound one can learn much about an instrument during appraisal.
How old is it, where was it made and ultimately how much is it worth are the common questions i am asked during appraisal.

Usually I can give a pretty good idea, though where I have some uncertainty I often refer on to someone else, in particular with higher quality older instruments. Usually my estimates come in the same ball park as my collegues..but not always.

Violin Bridge replacement

Violin bridges are essential for a violins function and over time need replacement. Just a few mm wide, a violin bridge holds up strings in tension with significant downward force on the body of the violin itself.  In addition to the mechanical properties the bridge is responsible for the transmission of the strings vibration to the body and the violin bridge replacement needs to be carefully crafted and sculpted.

violin bridge replacement

Bridges fail for all kinds of reasons including misadventure, but also succumb to the ravages of age and twist and warp under the constant tension. An improperly fitted bridge may have a shorter lifetime as well as it may not sit at the correct angle to connect  and  buttress the strings to the body in the correct alignment, or the feet matching to the body of the instrument may not be optimal.

When I fit a bridge I take into account the instrument it’s going on, the strings and the needs of the player.  For beginners and student violins I cut the bridge a bit thicker than otherwise, this prioritises strength as the alignment is not likely to be checked and adjusted as often as it should be. On better instruments, the matching of the bridge to the instruments tonal qualities can help with the bass vs. treble response, bridge thinness and mass removal from the kidneys and bottom arching can really help. Selection of the grade of the bridge is also important especially if you are chasing projection and brilliance. 

A new violin bridge blank looks something like its final fitted form and the replacement process involves matching the feet to the body of the violin to ensure full tonal transmission. The angle of the bridge must be set so that the pulling of the strings from the top and the tailpiece are optimally into the instrument. String height is then matched to the type of strings used to make sure the heights are both playable and also that the strings have enough  room to swing without clipping on the fingerboard and leading to buzzing.

Ernst Keller Violin Review

Ernst Keller Violin Review.

Ernst Keller Violin Review

I see Ernst Keller Violins come my way in the shop occasionally. These violins are less common of the student violins in the market  and I suspect this is because they don’t make the teacher recommended list. One the surface Ernst Keller violins are pretty much like the other beginner student violins on the market, though they feel a little heavy. What I think sets them apart from the teacher recommended brands is the setup. On the Ernst Keller violins I have seen the nut heights are usually too high and bridge shape and sound post not always positioned optimally, which can affect the sound and the playability. I suspect, as this is a violin that most often makes its way into generalist music stores, that the setup might be done with sufficient expertise…but thats just a guess  The Guarneri style chin rest doesn’t always suit young chin shapes either. So the Ernst Keller violin review verdict , good bones and a solidly built instrument and with a bit of care they can sound OK.

A little Cello restoration project

So in my spare moments I have been restoring this lovely old French cello. It’s had by the look of it a very full life with extensive work done on the neck and some sound post patches.  It has a highly resonant top plate that unfortunately has split in several places and many of the edges and a corner are quite badly damaged.

 

The top plate itself has shrunk such that gluing it back together would like cause tension in other areas of the top plate and in places has been filled with a black glue that was quite hard to remove.  

Leaving the top on the cello on initially, as it was to fragile to remove it, I set about rebuilding the splits with thin slivers of spruce inserted and stabilising the other five cracks. Then the top plate was stable enough to be removed and then worked on in my cello cradle. Here more than twenty cleats were installed across the various cleats. Cleats go cross grain in an offset pattern to spread the stress unevenly to other grain lines. These days I’m using parallelogram shaped cleats and finishing them in  a slight pyramid feathering to the edge to remove mass – they are not as manificent as my teachers though. I then burnish them slightly with some pigments to blend it in with the old wood.

Next up are the edge repairs and corners repairs to the cello, unfortunately many of these go beyond the purfling line and the wood next to them is quite weathered as well, so I have gone for an edge doubling technique to provide better mechanical strength. The lower layer is hidden and thus can be slightly- or a lot cross grain for strength. Normally cross grain is somewhat avoided because of shrinkage cross grain with age will be different for the old and new timbers, but in this case was needed to hold the edge together. The top layer is matched for the grain of the top plate though. One the timber is rebuilt and shaped, new purfling can be installed once some channels are carved.  Colouring new wood to old wood is a challenge, whilst I have the traditional pigments, building up the layers and how the light plays through it is a whole art in itself, the main thing is the repair doesn’t draw attention to itself.

Once all back together a new bridge was needed – it seems the top sits higher  now that the structure has been restored…and the sound…sublime!!!

cello-restoration project
Fiddler Dan