Hey if your here chances are you have come across an Aubert Violin for sale and want to do your due diligence on wether its suitable for you and a good quality violin. The good news is Aubert is a trusted name in the violin world, the not so good news is they only make bridges not violins, so you are almost back to square one…but not quite.
Hey if your here chances are you have come across an Aubert Violin for sale and want to do your due diligence on wether its suitable for you and a good quality violin. The good news is Aubert is a trusted name in the violin world, the not so god news news is they only make bridges not violins, so you are almost back to square one.
Often on facebook or gumtree you will see an Aubert violin advertised. This is because if you donât really know violins and are looking for a brand the most likely one you will see is the brand of the maker of the bridge, stamped on their bridge. Aubert bridges are made in France, they have several grades of bridges . Those marked Aubert, Aubert Made in France , Aubert a Mirecourt, Aubert a Mirecourt Deluxe represent the grades of bridge of increasing quality. There are knockoffs of Aubert bridges tooâŚthe grain kind gives it a way though if you know what youâre looking for. Bridges and bridge quality really matter for tone productionâŚbut we are talking about violins.
So what about the maker of said Aubert Violin? Rarely do makers put their name on beautifully polished timber, though sometimes you will see a stamp on the back of the body where the new joins it. To find out the maker you have to take a peak inside the f hole near the lower strings (the left hand of the violin if you are facing it). Inside here is usually a glued parchment with the maker of the violin, place its made, date (often prefixed with âannoâ) and perhaps a model / serial number.
Also you will often see Stradivari, copy of Stradivari or similar written. But donât get to excited by that, violins are made often on the template of older famous violins, so its unlikely its actually a Strad, just in the shape of one (you might also see Guarneri, Amati and others famous shapes). Mentioning Strad also has a bit of brand recognition⌠for the young maker or factory pumping out violins out of a workshop in Europe or Shenzen for that matter
Anyways the fact that it is a name brand bridge of some quality (even if it only costs about $10 for a student Aubert bridge), and that probably means itâs on a credible violinâŚbut do play it, check the inside label to find out the actual brand to make sure! See my tips on Buying a violin on facebook or gumtree? Some tips⌠or come checkout my range
Something I see from time to time are Gliga Violins, actually Iâd like to see more as they always sell reasonably quickly, I suspect because of brand reputation. So here is my Gliga Violin review. Value for money and great sound people usually go with my Hidersine Violins.
There is no doubt about it there is something lovely about a European instrument, made from European timbers (and the much vaunted Carpathian mountains where Stradivari is rumoured to source his timbersâŚgreat marketing!) and Gliga violins really fit the bill in that regard. They are a solid instrument tending towards a mellow tone, so sound good (well not squeaky) too. if you hunt on discussion forums they are discussed quite a bit The Gliga range starts with a III, II, I, Vasile and then some higher models as well. Recently the Gliga Romanie has been added as well , I suspect to reach into the lower end of the market. (same violins but with a durable finish thats quicker and cheaper to apply than the trad finish)
With each step up through the Gliga models you are getting progressively finer timbers and accompanying workmanship.
Of course the founder of Gliga violins Vasile Gliga canât possibly make them all ( a maker can only make a few a year generally) so how does he do it? As best i can determine after he found success as a maker, he began acquiring and building up violin workshops with his methods and under his supervisionâŚgenius I recon and a wonderful cottage industry is born. Gliga violins are based in Romania, this is formerly an Eastern block country, where wages are lower, at around 1/3-1/4 of those in Western Europe today according to google. Violin making is labour intensive so this is how he can make his violins for the price. Some people think they look a bit chunky on the corners and a bit mellow (some say woody).
You can see Gligaâs today in most music stores right across the planetâŚthat is manufacturing on a serious scale so I donât recon he can supervise all of them. As a result there is a fair bit of variability across the range so a Gliga III might sound better than a Gliga II and so on, its just going to depend on the instrument and what you as a buyer are looking for. In a music store its often all about the Brand, so being European and at a great price point they fit the bill well! To further keep the price down you often see the Gligaâs paired with a much cheaper bow than you might expect, this is ok if you are just a few years in, but youâll want to step that up to get the most from the instrument. After all a bow is 1/2 the sound production and there is quite a bit to the bow. A rough guide is 1/3 the price of your violin should be spent on the bow (see bow science)
Price wise, for the sound you are paying a premium for both the brand and the European place of manufacture and they have good resale value (actually all quality violins do) ). You can get better sound for your $$$ I recon (hear my comparison here with the violins I sell), but of course they areât made in Europe and donât look as beautiful.
My son currently plays a Gliga I with a one piece back, I think for him its mostly about the brand, though of course it sounds nice too. I have Tonicaâs on his violin which suit where he is at . At the time of writing this heâs been playing about 4 years now, so will step up the strings when he is ready to get more from his violin.
One of the instruments I see a lot of are the Arioso violins, so here is a review. Its a popular instrument in Brisbane and I suspect what a lot of string teachers recommend. For $400 you get a lot of instrument (tonally and quality), of course add on spare strings and a shoulder pad and its closer to $500 though.
Mostly I see them as 3/4, as they are a step up from the entry level instrument you get your child when they are on a 1/2 size and not sure they are going to continue. Then by the time they are on a full size instrument they are ready for something quite a bit better (product placement see my new and preloved fullsize ). Having said all that they are great for a complete beginner regardless of size.
The Arioso violin (Simply for Strings instrument) is a nice looking instrument that comes in a variety of finishes from that classic Amber colour through to a darker stained antique look sold more recently. It fitted with quality ebony running gear, wittner style self adjusters and Dâaddario Prelude strings. These strings are a good match if you are just starting, but a bit underpowered otherwise. They are steel strings, so an upgrade of these to a synthetic core as your playing develops helps the violin keep pace with you (Thomastik Alphayu are what I refit them with usually, or perhaps Tonicas). I have seen Evah Pirazzi strings fitted to these violins, at $180 a set I think thats like Ferrari tires on a Hyundai though. Matching the strings to the instrument and player saves money and/or gets the most from the instrument and player (See my Violin String Selection Guide)
Nothing really goes wrong with these instruments, apart from misadventure at the hands of your 10yr old đ I see a few with some weakness around the end pin, so if you are in the market for one second hand check for a small split on the side timbers near the end pin (its not uncommon in young wood used in student instruments that is not all that seasoned) or an end pin pushed in too hard when made or dropped on. A small split here is cosmetic, but hiding behind that might be an issue with the internal end block, a tell tale sign is the angle of the end pin has been pulled up ( as there is a lot of tension from the strings pulling upwards).
A look inside an Arioso (see the inside $400 violin) shows why his might be so. To make a violin that sounds this good at this price some compromises need to be made, and usually thats where you canât see it, there might be cleats to help the fit of the back, the end blockâs been drilled out a bit quick and split, internal pieces might not quite fit together. The bass bar is carved, rather than fitted as seperate, which can be a strength and tone issue. But hey if you want all this, then you are paying for a master maker and need to spend quite a bit more.
Usually when an Arioso comes my way it needs some love, a string change, minor bridge work (or replacement), peg service, lubing the fine tuners, removing a few years of rosin and attending to any cosmetic chips and scratches. Pride and care in an instrument comes from playing one that looks good, your youngun needs something that looks nice and takes pride in it. The bow where needed is serviced or replaced too.
I tend to sell serviced Arioso from $150 up to around $250 mostly in 3/4 size depending on condition and new parts added. One of the nice things about an older secondhand instrument is the tone woods have had time to season a few more years and be played in a bit more – they actually sound better than new! (have a listen to a new and secondhand Montanari instrument sound comparison )
DISCLAIMER: I have no financial relationship with SFS
I have lost count of the times I have been servicing a $300 instrument only to find $180 strings on it, because that was what some music store (or cough teacher) recommended. I know why they recommended it of course the % markup on strings is pretty low, so if you can sell an expensive set you are more likely to cover your transaction costs.
But is not really a good match for the violin or likely the player, Itâs a bit like putting racing tires on a Hyundai Excel or a donning Tuxedo to go water skiing⌠looks great, but not really fit for purpose. In fact for a beginning student expensive string may make them sound worseâŚamplifying every technique imperfection.
There are literally hundreds of violin strings on the market today and you can buy them all in Brisbane, with great variation between them in tonal properties, projection and durability. Yes they are expensive, why canât they be like guitar strings at $20 a set you ask? Its all in the construction, and perhaps to the premium of playing a classical instrument?
So what do I recommend? Here are some thoughtsâŚ
Steel stringsâŚ
Steel strings – everyone wants them on a guitar , but on a violin they donât sound the best. Probably this is because the modes of vibration, donât get the delicious upper order harmonics nor the rich fat lows. But on smaller instruments where the string length is shorter, so they are not so tight its not too bad and so are a good match for beginners. The tone on smaller violins tends not to be stradivarius quality, as they re generally cheaper instruments only used for 6 months or so so expensive strings are a bit of overkill. I like the Clarion Silver Strings, with a multi stranded steel core and last a longer time. So a good match up even on 3/4 size instruments, if its your first instrument and your just starting out ~$25 a set too they are easy on the pocket.
Filament cores…not cat gut
Filament cores are the modern equivalent of traditional gut strings (which were never made from cats), but without the challenges of humidity, tuning and generally better sound projection (pursuits have at me in the comments section if you will)
What to choose – Basics
By the time you are on a 3/4 or 4/4 instrument though you will probably want something better than steel, to reflect a better instrument and also to reflect you developing tone production abilities.
Thomastik Alphayue come in around $50 and then Pirastro Tonicas at ~$65 and are a good choice here. In fact Tonicas will do you well into your third grade of playing and beyond.
From here though what string you use starts to depending on you as a player, your violin (especially if its electric) and the kind of music you play. Thomastik Dominants have been around forever, and are a mainstay of quite a few professional and amateur violists alike , at ~$100 treat yourself to solid performer perhaps?
The above strings are what I tend to keep in stock for setting up instruments new and preloved, though I can order in anything my Brisbane violin customers want as well.
Stepping up
Pirastro Violino (~$80) can bring down a hard edged new instrument a bit and for the more serious Pirastro Obligatos ($175) can bring out some rich dark tones, Larsen Tzigane(~$120) are another option in this regard for some really chewy tone.
If you want a bit more brilliance and projection go for Evah Pirazzi Strings ($165) or newcomer Warchal Brilliants (~$120 ), pronounced as Varkal if you want to sound sophisticated at the till ( the V and W sounds are substituted in some European countries). There are also the Thomastik Infeld Red and Blue (~$130), designed to mix and match to get the right string for your violin across the 2 sets (and give you something sophisticated to talk about – like you are discussing fine red wines).
Durability
Strings can last anywhere from 6 months to a year depending on how much you play them, yes many will keep going long after that but they tend to lose their âmagicâ. Evah Pirazziâs for example are a favourite soloist string but are infamous for not keeping their zing all that long (3 months some people recon). String lose their sound so slowly you may not even notice it till you put a fresh set on and then âwow these are the best strings everâ.
When to change
I usually have a set of what I want to try next in my violin case. When the first string goes (breaks or gets âfuzzyâ) and change it only and maybe wait till the second one goes before I give in and put them all on.
Strings tend to go better with their own kind , I suspect this is because all the strings resonate sympathetically to the one being played, though often people might have an E string they prefer (especially if you have a wolf note – youâll want the patented Amber E from Warchal)
Most often its the A string that goes first, up near the fingers, there is something about its winding and finger sweat that does mix. On student violins its often the E string – as a victim of over enthusiastic tuning âŚping!!!
Simply for Strings in Brisbane Northside runs a programme every year called Stringtember, with a modest discount on all strings. Itâs as good a reminder as any to change your strings. I suspect they chose September because it is the quietest time of the year in the trade (except possibly week 3 of term 1 ) so it makes sense to drum up business..and hey while you are here look at these lovely instruments đ As for me its when I catch up on all my backlog of instrument renovation getting ready for the December rush.
So your spending anywhere from $60 – $160 a year on strings, it sound like a lot but remember thats just the cost of a few violin lessons. Strings are what make the sound and are only cents per day, so get over it and treat yourself and your violin.
Experimenting with sound
Here are some violin string tonal charts. I like this one from violin string review the most, because its multi brand, and you can read loads of crowd sourced reviews of strings here as well. To help you decide to drop you $$ on. It can feed your confirmation bias on what you think you want , or help you discover something new.
Violin Strings Brisbane – a guide : Image courtesy of ViolinStringGuide.com
Hear loads of strings being played on the same instrument and discussed (Courtesy of whitehorsemusic.com.au in Sydney)
Here are 3 sound files 2 from violins I sell for around $500 and another from a well known European student brand (Gliga II) which retails for around $900. Which is which?…you be the judge. If you like the sound of my violins, or can’t tell them apart checkout my new instruments
To be fair violins are not just about the sound. There is a sense of history with the European violins, they use European timber, the price of labour is higher there and the traditional finish is lovely though quite labour intensive to produce.
I see the Stentor violins coming through reasonably often, they are defiantly a budget line instrument and can be had for as low as $200 new, depending on the model. You get what you pay for with violins so you shouldnât expect the sound to be wonderful⌠but its a solid reliable performer. Usually the fingerboard isnât ebony which doesnât really matter so much if its your first instrument, you not sliding around in the positions just yet anyway. If the violin is coming to you third hand it might matter as it will likely have some grooves from the strings they need planing out. Probably the greatest issue with them is being a cheaper instrument they are less likely to be carried by a specialist string store initially and so might not have been setup all that well, making it harder to play with the strings too high at the bridge or nut.
So all up an OK choice for your very first instrument as a 1/2 size but for a larger instrument or one you will have for longer you might consider spending a bit more.
Consider choosing a secondhand violin from me if your budget is tight or spend just a bit more on something like my Neo violins
Franz Sandner is a relatively well known factory violin maker from Germany producing higher end student and other violins in Germany, carried now to third generation. Sander German Violins pop up in shops and online with a bit of a price premium, here is my review and thoughts about them.
Digging a bit deeper, some time back though a joint Sandner violin venture was established with Taiwan, to form the Sandner Dynasty Company which builds and manufactures violins in China. China makes good violins these days, the cost of labour is lower than in western Europe so it makes good sense. The challenge comes around the marketing and does it pass the ‘pub test’. Is it really still a German violin? The labels implies that it is, and at the price point it would seem to be a bargain. Germany is written everywhere from case, to label inside the violin..and bridge!!
Even on the Aubert bridge on this one it seems not quite right as Aubert a French bridge company! . Personally I find it a bit deceptive and at the very least quite misleading.
None the less by way of first hand review, my son had a Sandner Dynasty violin for a while, it was a good violin for him at the stage he was at. It was a quality build, with a good bow and an upper end student case too…so I was happy with it, but if I had thought it to be a German violin I think I would have been disappointed. I still see Sandner Violins advertised as a German violins in music shops too..its a bit disappointing I recon, sure the store owner can claim ignorance as it says Germany on the label…but I recon they’d know! Probably it cheapens their actual German made Sandner violins reputation too.
